Arctic Air Geothermal Systems

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Geothermal Systems

New Construction.

Geothermal systems are the best heating and cooling options for building a new home. The upfront costs are less and the initial outlay can be included in the monthly mortgage payments. The increase in mortgage costs are typically offset by the savings in energy that the homeowner will have over the lifetime of the geothermal system.

Retrofitting.

Geothermal pumps are a great replacement or retrofit application for an existing home. The units are easy to install, particularly when replacing another forced air system. There is no combustion with the systems, so no need to vent exhaust gases.

Sources:

Department of Energy

Frequent Questions

10,000 year old technology.

Geothermal is a technology that relies on the Earth's natural energy, which is a renewable resource, to heat or cool a home or building. Geothermal energy has been used as early as 10,000 years ago by the Romans.

Utilize nature.

The Earth's surface maintains a nearly constant temperature of 50 to 60°F. By using a geothermal pump system buried in the shallow ground, heat and cool air can be produced and sent into your home or building. A geothermal heat pump system consists of indoor heat pump equipment, a ground loop, and a flow center to connect the indoor and outdoor equipment. The heat pump equipment works like a reversible refrigerator by removing heat from one location and depositing it in another location. The ground loop, which is invisible after installation, allows the exchange of heat between the earth and the heat pump. Geothermal energy is a huge, underused heat and power source that emits no greenhouse gases, is the most reliable, and is made right here in the United States.

Distribution.

The geothermal unit is connected to the home's existing heating/cooling distribution system, whether it's gravity or forced air, water-based (typically with radiators) or water-to-water in-floor radiant.

Low Maintenance.

Cleaning the electrostatic filter once a month is all that's needed to keep the system in good running order.

Quiet Operation.

Pumps quietly circulate fluid through the heat exchanger. No combustion or forced-flame noise is heard. An outdoor air conditioning unit, often noisy, is not required.

Comfort.

Geothermal systems eliminate indoor temperature swings and humidity changes that often occur with traditional systems. In addition, the occasional odour caused by combustion of fossil fuel will also be eliminated.

Long System Life.

Geothermal units have a life expectancy of at least 20 years.

Savings Overview.

A new ENERGY STAR specification for geothermal heat pumps went into effect on December 1, 2009. The new specification allows water-to-water GHPs to immediately be eligible to qualify for the label. On average, ENERGY STAR qualified products covered under this new specification will be over 45 percent more energy efficient than standard options.

Maintaining EPA Standards.

Anticipating advances in technology in the coming years, EPA has set more stringent efficiency requirements to ensure that ENERGY STAR continues to represent top performers in this category.

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New Requirements.

New requirements for water-to-air and direct geoexchange GHP models will take effect on January 1, 2011. Even more stringent levels will go into effect for water-to-water and water-to-air models on January 1, 2012.

New Tax Credits.

As of December 1, 2009 homeowners who install geothermal heat pumps with the ENERGY STAR are eligible for a 30 percent federal tax credit. Learn more.

Safe and Secure.

Geothermal heat pump systems typically have lower maintenance costs than conventional systems as all equipment is installed inside the building or underground. This means that there is no outside equipment exposed to weather and vandalism. All refrigerant systems are sealed, similar to household refrigerators.

Water-to-Air.

A geothermal heat pump model that provides space conditioning primarily by the use of an indoor air heat exchange coil. Water-to-air models may also provide domestic water heating and hydronic space heating by using desuperheater and/or demand water heating functions.

Water-to-Water.

A geothermal heat pump model that provides space conditioning and/or domestic water heating by the use of indoor refrigerant-to-water heat exchanger(s). Water-to-water models may provide domestic water heating by using desuperheater and/or demand water heating functions.

Open Loop.

A ground heat exchange method in which the heat transfer fluid is part of a larger environment. The most common open loop systems use ground water, reclaimed water, or surface water as the heat transfer medium. Also called a ground-water system.

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Single-Stage.

Geothermal heat pumps that are designed to operate at one stage and one capacity.

Multi-Stage.

Geothermal heat pumps that are designed to operate at more than one stage or capacity through the use of technologies such as multiple stage compressors, dual compressors, variable speed compressors, etc. Multi-stage models are more efficient while running at lower capacities, but have the capability to supply more heating or cooling using higher capacities when required.

Closed Loop.

A ground heat exchange method in which the heat transfer fluid is permanently contained in a closed piping system. Also called a ground-loop system.

Frequently Asked Questions

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Common Questions to Geothermal Systems

What does it cost to install?: Geothermal, like other central heating and/or cooling systems can be installed in a number of configurations including forced air, hydronic baseboard, and radiant floors for distribution. The source can be either an open or closed loop. A geothermal system usually cost somewhat more than a conventional fossil fuel system with air conditioning to install but has a lower operation cost and no fuel deliveries. There are also no atmospheric emissions of carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, and hydrocarbons with a geothermal system.

How does the cost of heating with a geothermal system compare to other heating modes?: Geothermal systems cost less to operate than electric, electric heat pumps, oil, kerosene, natural and propane gas.

How much will it save?: This would depend on your local utility rates for electricity and each of the fossil fuels. Somewhere from 20 to 60% in Dollars. Ask our previous customers what their long term savings were. In ecological terms the savings are even greater!
Should I use vertical, horizontal, or open loop?: In the Northeast only vertical systems should be used. There is much more heat available in 50°F earth than the 32°F (or less) form a horizontal system in frost and frozen earth or an iced over lake or pond.
Can snow melt be done?: Yes, with the right equipment and the right design.

Can I heat my pool?: Yes, for an indoor, enclosed pool. For an outdoor pool a solar pool heater is a better option.
Are there any substantial improvements in efficiency on the horizon ?: Manufacturers are continuously working to improve their products. We have seen improvements since 1975 when we first came into the geothermal market.
I am planning a large home. Should I use one large of two smaller units?: This would depend on the layout of the home and your personal preferences as to temperature control. We have designed and installed in homes from 800 to over 15,000 sq.ft.
Is the system antifreeze a potential environmental problem?: This is a concern in closed loop systems. The loop designer should use a not toxic antifreeze. In open loop VSWC systems well water is used and this is not an issue.

I have heard of a system where air is circulated through large diameter pipes buried in the soil and then supplied to the building for heating purposes. Is that possible?: In the Northeast this isn’t practical as the large diameter pipes would have to be buried below the 15 ft. level to get below the effect of the frost.
I am an engineer, where can I find more detailed information for commercial applications?: We have worked together with both engineers and architects in designing and installing commercial geothermal systems since 1975.

I have oil or gas hot water heat. Can I convert to geothermal?

Converting a home or building with hot water heat is not as easy. Fossil fuel systems for hydronic (warm water) heating include either copper & aluminum hot water baseboards, cast iron radiators, or radiant heat. All of them are designed to operate at from 180 - 200 °F.

Geothermal systems, though much more efficient operate at between 100 - 120 °F, and are not compatible with distribution systems originally designed for much higher temperatures. You would need almost 3 times the size radiators, baseboards, or length of radiant tubing.

Converting a home or building basically means starting from scratch.

The up side is that you get a system that is much more efficient, has a lower heating cost, and can have zoned heating and central air conditioning as well.

I have heard radiant heat is the most efficient. What's the story?

There should be no hidden secrets or mysteries about heating and / or cooling systems.

All heating systems are composed of 3 equally important components as follows:

fuel source - oil, gas, wood, geothermal - all but the geothermal convert a fuel by burning it into heat energy.
heat conversion unit - the furnace, boiler, wood stove, or geothermal unit - The first 3 take 95 - 100% of their energy from the fuel. Geothermal gets 70 - 75% of it's energy from the earth, and the other 25 - 30% from electrical energy for conversion.
Distribution - radiant, hydronics, or forced air - everyone is familiar with all of these. Forced air is the only one that can also do zoned central air conditioning.

All 3 of the components of a heating system are just as important. Only if all 3 are correctly designed, installed, and maintained will you get the comfort and economy you deserve, and have paid for.

Some information on radiant heat. We are certified on and do install Wirsbo radiant heat for the right applications but, it is not more efficient than other forms of heat. You are still trying to transfer heat through a poly-plastic, which is never efficient.

The right applications for radiant heat are those where a floor's temperature is the most critical thing, such as:

truck repair garages, where people have to work on their backs on or just above the floor
fire departments and rescue squads where the rolling stock must be kept above freezing
basements floors that have no carpeting

Radiant heat is just what it says. The heat must radiate from the floor, not allowing convective currents to be set up in the space above it. Any energy cost savings is from the idea that only the floor and the 6 to 7 ft. above it are heated, and not any cathedral space above it. If convective currents are set up by the installation of air conditioning or heat recovery ducts, the introduction of a whole house ventilator, or any method that breaks this "stagnant" radiant pattern there is no energy cost savings.

Some wrong applications for radiant heat are:

any space above another conditioned space
any basement where you will have carpeting on the floor
any cathedral room with whole house ventilation, air conditioning,or a fresh air system

Radiant heat systems in themselves are not more efficient than any other form or heat distribution. In fact they are less efficient than forced warm air and hydronic warm water heat through copper tubing.

I am on a municipal water system. Can I convert to geothermal energy?: Water is the heat transfer fluid, not the heat source. The earth is the heat source and any water must be coming up from at least 15 ft. down to not be affected by the frost. A pond, lake, or stream on or near your home or building is not a geothermal source. You would have to drill a well or install a well point if you have a high water table.

I have steam, cast iron radiators. Can they be converted to operate on geothermal?: No, steam systems operate from 220 + °F and geothermal systems, though much more efficient cannot deliver within 100°F of this temperature. Steam systems were designed when buildings had little or no insulation, and fuel was relatively cheap.

I have a lake, pond, stream, or body of water adjacent to my home. Can I use this as a geothermal source?: No, again, the water is not the fuel source, only the heat transfer medium. The water must be underground fed from at least 15 ft. down.
I have a 1 acre lot next to my home. Can I do a horizontal loop?: No, we have frost that goes down from 4 - 6 ft. and it's cooling effect goes down 15 ft. To get into the geothermal "temperate zone" we need to have our source at least 15 ft. down

I have an old building or home and have heard that the HIVAC systems take up a lot less space for air ducts.: They do take up less space but at a large premium. With the high velocities and large differential temperatures they are not as efficient due to increased pressure required by high static pressure blowers. They also require frequent maintenance as the extra high differential temperatures tend to have the air conditioning coils "ice up" easily and must go through constant defrost cycles. Ask anyone who has had one for any number of years.

We have a vacation home in the Mountains. Is it feasible to use geothermal there?: If this home is for Summer only use, or you close it down, shut off any heat, and drain the pipes in Winter, no.
I/We have a very deep drilled water well but it has very low production. Can we use this well for geothermal?: Very deep water wells, in the 400 ft.+ depth can usually be used for geothermal purposes, even though some of them don't produce enough water for domestic use. If the well produces enough "drawdown" for both purposes great but, a 500 ft. "dry hole" can still be a "permanent fuel tank" for you and your family, even if it cannot give you drinking water.
I've heard geothermal systems blow cold air in Winter?: Your Grandfather's old fossil fuel oil or gas furnace heated the air that passed through it somewhere between 60 and 100°F every pass of air. It literally "fried" the moisture out of it. It also delivered this air with curtain shaking, cat chasing high velocities. With it's 1.5 to 2 air changes per hour you were either too cold or too hot, with very uneven temperatures throughout the house. Geothermal systems are designed to stringent ACCA standards for 4 air changes per hour and only 20 - 25°F temperature rise every pass of air. With higher volume, lower velocities (cat friendly) you are comfortable, and don't know how you got there. So, geothermal systems deliver warm air, not hot air. If the room temperature is 70°F the average delivered air temperature should be 90 - 95°F. The bottom line is it will heat your home for a lot less than any other automatic method. Of course free wood can do it for less, and wood is also renewable.

My friend bought a home with a horizontal closed loop and says it works great until the end of the Winter when it seems to "run out of fuel", why?: Geothermal loop systems are region specific. In the North we can't bury a pipe at 3 to 4 ft. and expect to get heat from it the whole Winter long. Some time during the winter the loop will freeze and as everyone knows ice makes a great insulator, ask any Eskimo. In fact, the earth's temperature below the frost will be lower as deep as 15 ft. below the surface. The larger the frozen layer of ice around the loop the harder it is to eke out any heat at all from that loop. This is after the loop has already dropped to 32°F. With a vertical standing water column (VSWC) supply you never run out of fuel due to you loop freezing up. The earth is always 50°F, and so your supply to the geothermal equipment is a constant, January through July. Also, when you use well water as your heat exchange fluid there are no environmental questions about what anti-freeze to use.
How efficient is the air conditioning side of a geothermal system?: About twice as efficient as a conventional central air system. Think, how hard is it to cool a home or building with 50°F water being used as the cooling medium, not 90 -100°F air. That means that when you have a 3 ton system it's always a 3 ton system, even at 110°F outside. Conventional systems are rated at 85°F outdoor air and system capacity drops off with temperature rises above that mark. Geothermal systems have a constant 50°F "condenser", so it is always the most efficient with 100% of it's capacity.

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Why would you choose geothermal instead of some other form of renewable energy?: We have installed all types of solar heating and electric systems and we still find geothermal gives you the "biggest bang for your buck", in that it addresses the majority of most people's home energy needs. Heating and Cooling comprise from 70 - 80% of most homes energy consumption. Today's ARI certified and correctly applied geothermal systems should be able to get from 70 - 75% of that energy from the earth, responsibly. Most other renewable systems replace a much smaller percentage of your total energy use.